Bali, the island we all know for its famed beaches and fantastic surf. When entering the name in a search engine, images pop up that will make you want to book a flight straight away. I’ve spent several weeks here and must admit, it’s hard to leave.

“Island of the gods”
Unlike any other island in mostly Muslim Indonesia, Bali has obvious Hindu religion and culture. This is noticed everywhere you go. Most visibly in the small offerings found in and in front of every house, office, restaurant, hotel room and for sure, temple. These leaf trays are made every day and can contain a range of offerings, like flowers, rice, cookies, or cigarettes. Normally they are set with incense sticks and sprinkled with holy water, at least 3 times a day, before every meal. It’s hard not to step on them, as they are everywhere, but doing so on purpose brings bad luck. The island has around 20.000 temples, where many festivals and ceremonies are held at any time of year.

The varying landscape is very attractive, with beaches and mangroves all along the coastline and inland, Bali is largely lush, green and fertile, and rice paddies are the dominant agricultural feature of the island, with volcanos smouldering in the background. I’m here at the end of the rainy season with temperatures around 33⁰ C (93⁰ F) around the clock – jeez it’s hot out here!

Refreshing waterfalls around Lovina

Lovina – hot and splendid

Hindu setting with offerings at the waterfalls | Lovina

Stick-man and Bubbles on the road

Lovina is the first town to strike down in Bali, a dormant coastal town with a typical volcanic black sand beach. The stay itself sets a high bar for the time to come, as it each room has most colourful woodcarvings, the shower is open air and there’s even a swimming pool – feelin’ like a tourist alright.

We rent scooters (€3 per day) and set for cruising the hills exploring the many waterfalls and natural hot springs. It’s the first time back on a moped after Malaysia in 2014, it feels good to move around independently, even if the Balinese drive on the left and seem to have no driving rules. Except for the cops, stopping every tourist to get some extra pocket money finding whichever reason to fine you.
One of the waterfalls we visit has several pools and a swing to get a proper jungle Jane feeling, I swing and take the plunge into the refreshing water.

Ubud is where I head next, the American couple I’ve been traveling with continues to Lombok, so I’m by myself again.

It does not work out well that day. The Ojek (motorbike taxi) driver has his own plan on what to do with me and half way through the 2 hour drive I clarify he can forget about that. Luckily, he doesn’t get aggressive but starts whining that he ‘no want go Ubud, want home, cold rain’, I tell him -less nicely- that he’s a bad Hindu and his Karma will catch up with him. I watch him drive off and stand on the rim of Mount Batur all alone now, shivering in the pooring rain both from the cold and the emotions. Maybe I did step onto several offerings?
Eventually I manage to hitch a ride and decide on the back of the pickup truck not to venture too much alone, I’ll stick to having a moped or organise transport in the hostels. Also, I’ll skip a trip to doomed Batur volcano.

Ubud is basically the cultural centre of Bali. It is famous as an arts and crafts hub. There are some remarkable architectural and other sights to be found, and a general feeling of well being to be enjoyed, all thanks to the spirit, surroundings, and climate of the place. It is also famed for the many yoga shacks and teachers due to its vibe and mellow climate.

I find a lovely homestay, with beautiful rooms behind the family house, set in a lush green garden, where you only hear the river, the birds, and the rooster in the morning. Now this is living up to my Bali expectations!
There’s definitely something about Ubud, even though it’s loaded with tourists, it’s very peaceful and so very easy to escape into the green green rice paddies. This is what I do here, each sunrise I head for the Campuhan ridge walk and see the sun slowly rising.

I also spend an afternoon in sacred monkey forest, I don’t like animals in captivity, but these ca. 600 badass macaques are living on the temple complex and they are the ones allowing us in. They are funny, fierce and incredibly daring.
Plastic bags are absolutely not safe, neither are plastic bottles, they just climb up to you and snatch it, even bite you if you won’t let them. I enjoy my walk and use these great posers to learn more about my camera before headed back to the bustling streets.

There is so much more to do here, but frankly, I am pretty fine with the few activities and simply love the garden of my homestay…

Sacred Monkey Forest

Mount Batur – view from Ubud

Sacred Monkey Forest